Production of launderable semistiff fabrics or articles of wearing apparel



Patented July 15, 1952 PRODUCTION OF LAUNDERABLE SEMISTIFF FABRICS ORARTICLES F WEARING AP- PAREL Eric Higgins, Punchetts, Tewin Wood,England No Drawing. Application June 12, 1945, Serial No. 599,128. InGreat Britain May 23, 1944 Section 1, Public Law 690, AugustS, 1946Patent expires May 23, 1964 This invention relates to the production oflaunderable semi-stiff fabrics and articles of wearing apparel and isconcerned with fabric articles involving in their production theamalg'a-' mation of plies of fabric, one at least of whichwhich may forconvenience be called the operative ply-contains strands or elements ofcellulose This process, however, involves the use of sol vents which isopen to certain'obvious objections. It has, therefore, been suggested,from time to time, to eliminate the use of solvents by plasticising theoperative ply consisting of or containing the cellulose acetate and manyplasticisers are known in the art and it has already beensuggested touse for the purpose an aqueous disper' sion of a plasticiser, suchdispersion containing an organic derivative of cellulose. I

Hitherto, it has been thought that it was desirable to induce as much aspossible of the plasticiser to be absorbed by the organic celluloseacestance known of where the use of an emulsion'in the form-of anaqueous dispersion of the plasticiser wassuggested, for the purpose ofrender ing the plasticised fabric'less greasy to the touch,

the dispersion employed essentially-contained an organic derivative ofcellulose. The result of this must inevitably be that, while thecelluloseacetate constituent of the fabric could be made to absorb anydesired amount of plasticiser, dependent on theperiod of immersion,thecotton constituent of the'fabric, would not take up the plasticiser,except, maybe, to a negligible extent in' the'form of a thin skin.

The object of the present invention is to provide a process by which anydesired ratio of plasticiser content as between the cellulose acetateconstituent of the fabric and the cotton constituentcan be attained.This object can be accomplished by the use of an aqueous emulsion of theplasticizer of predetermined concentration. The present invention isbased upon the conception, in contradistinction to the earlier proposal,that the cotton constituent of the com- Pat-- 6 Claims: (01. 154115) L30tate constituent of the fabric and the only inr posite fabric should beinduced totake up a controlled amount of the plasticiser and the objectof the present invention, therefore, is to provide a process by means ofwhich a fabric can be produced in which there is a controlleddifferential ratio between the amount or quantity of plasticisercontained in the cellulose acetate constituent of the fabric and thecotton constituent of the fabric.

The amount of plasticiser in the cellulose acetate is determinedas'heretofore by the time period during which the fabric is treated withthe emulsion and the amount contained in the cotton constituent iscontrolled, primarily, by the concentration of the emulsion and,secondarily-but quite importantly in the practical carrying out of theprocess-by the extent to which excess liquid is expressed from thefabric after treatment with the emulsion.

It will be understood that the ratio which will give the best resultsshould be ascertained by trial with each particular composite fabric,since the optimum ratio is dependent upon a variety of conditions such,for example, as the structure of the operative ply itself, and, also toa lesser extent, the characteristics of the plies with which it issubsequently to be called upon to bond.

From the foregoing it will be seen that the present invention consistsof a process for plasticising composite fabric consisting of threads orstrands of both cellulose acetate and threads or strands of cotton, bymeans of an aqueous emulsion of a plasticiser according to which thecomposite fabric is immersed in an emulsion of predeterminedconcentration for a period of time depending on the quantity ofplasticiser required to be taken up by the cellulose acetateconstituent,

whereby the amount of plasticiser retained by the cellulose acetateconstituent of the fabric and the amount of plasticiser retained by thecotton constituent of the fabric are selectively controlled,

the content of the cellulose acetate constituent being dependent on theperiod of immersion in the emulsion, and that retained by the cottonconstituent being determined by the concentration of the emulsion.

More specifically, the invention consists of a process for plasticisingcomposite fabric consisting of threads or strands of both celluloseacetate and threads or strands of cotton, by means of an aqueousemulsion of a plasticiser according to which the composite fabric isimmersed in an aqueous emulsion of predetermined concentration for aperiod of time depending on the quantity of plasticiser required to betaken up by the cellulose acetate constituent, the fabric being thensubjected to a mangling or other expression process for the removal ofexcess liquid and the fabric is finally dried, whereby the amount ofplasticiser retainedby cellulose acetate COl'lStlllllr ent of the fabricandthe amount of plasticiser re are neutral, slightly soluble in water,and of low volatility per se and in steam at temperatures up to 300 F.On the other hand, it is not necessarily disadvantageous and it may evenbe desirtained by the cotton constituent of the fabric are acetateconstituent being dependent .onthepe- The invention further includes-aplasticised fabric composed of cellulose acetate and cottonv able forthe solvent used. to be" broken down into water-soluble constituents(uninjurious of course to the ordinary textiles) when subjected toselectively controlled, the content of the cellulose *laundry conditionsthat is to say to the action of mildly alkaline water at temperatures of212 F.

' or thereaboutssince the ultimate removal of the plasticiser increasesthe strength of the bond in the finished article and its ready removalby ordinary laundering processes is an added advantage. Clearly,cheapness, availability, freedom having a predetermined plasticiser'content in the cellulose acetateconstituent-and a predetermined cordingto my invention treated with an aqueous emulsion of a suitableplasticiser under-conditions in which theplasticiser isselectivelysubstantive to the cellulose acetate so that the dis--tribution of the plasticiser between the operative (cellulose acetate)and non-cperativeelements of the composite is under control; thereafterthe fabric is dried and can be employedprecisely as was formerlycustomary in the art, with the: exce'ptionv that itis not, necessary toemploy solvents, ultimate fusion. being brought about merely by theapplication of heat and pressure. Theoperative-fabric aqueouslyplasticised accordingto my invention may be marketed assuch, being afabric possessing agreeable handling and textile characteristics assusceptible of use: in accordance with normal manufacturing procedure asare the operativefabrics now used, in the art. Iv have. found that inorder fortheioperative fabrics to have'the'desired properties and retainthem even after considerablelapse oftime, not only must the-acetatecellulose contain andro tain a suificient quantity ofplasticiserxtoreduce its melting or softening point topracticallyrealisable and. convenient limits, but the non-operativefibres with which it is associated mustalso. contain and retaina'proportionate amount of the plasticising agentin order to permit of.spread.-

ing instead ofballing up of thecellulose acetate j diluent; would resultin excessiveproportions of .Dlasticis er in the non-operative threads)is easily controlled when. absorption of the plasticiser is effectedfrom a suitable emulsion of the plasticiser in water. That is to say,regulation asregards the non-operative non-substantive fibres isconditione d by the concentration of plasticiser in the has a pH ofabout 7.5. r 1

emulsionv and in the operative substantive elementby the duration of thetreatment.

from strong. odour and in a smaller measure freedom from pronouncedcolour are of general and obvious advantage.

":In' the preparation of the aqueous emulsions an-emulsifying agent willgenerally be necessary for commercial convenience, and a large number ofagents are known and available to those engaged in the art. Choice againshould be guided in favour of such agents as are operative in. neutralor nearly neutral solutions and'are freef'rom. action upon the textilesthemselves and upon colouring matters employed to decorate them. Freeremoval from the fabric lay-laundry proc-; esses is clearly adesideratum in such emulsifying.

agents and clearly it is advantageous if on. drying upon the fabric theyassist in the.retent ion;(by. the formation of a film for example) 7 ofthe non substantively held plasticiser in the non-acetyl-. cellulosicportion of the composite fabric and hinder its flow or migration. solelybyway of example of a suitable emulsion, and without, be itunderstood,limiting myself to-this particulars e lection I give a composition ofmatterwhich has been found to give the effect claimed-in thisapplication in a peculiarly advantageous manner. 500 lbs. of a mixtureconsisting of 55-percent:

by weight of formanilide and 45 per cent of o.-: formyltoluide isintroduced with intensive stirring into: a solution of 24' lbs. of"casein: in 470 lbs. of water and'l2 lbs. of hydrated borax at. 2.temperature of 200 F. or thereabouts The-mixture; is" passed, whilstbeing well mixedsonce or twice through an homogeniser and'the resultantemulsion cooled as quickly. as possible. The cold emulsion is stable,contains approximatelyBO-per cent of its weight of the plasticisingmixture and Into such an emulsion the passed and allowed to remain intheemulsion until the' desired amount of plasticiser has been absorbedby'the acetate threads, theamountre tained by the non-acetate portionofthe composite being determined by the concentration of theemulsion andthe degree to which the excess fluid-is expressed from it before drying;

per cent of plasticiser no matter how *Iongimmersion is containedprovided uniform penetra-l tiorr is achieved. Onthe other hand, theamountof plasticiser absorbed by the acetate constituent will at anychosen concentration of the emul sionbe' a function of the time ofimmersion and 5 be but little affected ultimately by the original fabriccontaining the cellulose acetate threads;-,.or elements is concentrationof the emulsion or the expression" left'befo're drying,- though clearlythe more dilute the emulsion thev longer the period'of immersion whichwill be necessary to achieve a given concentration of plasticiser in theacetate elements. In .general, lelevated "temperature will, other thingsbeing .equal, decrease the time necessary for a given percentageabsorption by the acetate.

Thus, separate portions ofa compositefabric of allcotton warps andalternated. 4 cotton and 2Lacetate wefts were passed through theemulsion given as an example and allowed to remain on .-the batch,aconvenient commercial expe I dient, for varying periods;thereafter-they were mangledto 100 per cent expression and driedat'130-1'40 They .gave the following figures:

The three dried fabrics were then separately used as an interlayerbetween two pieces of cotton poplin and were ironed for 30 seconds fromback and front with a tailor's iron at 200 F. The adhesions measured ona 1" strip were respectively 90, 170, and 190 grammes and, after laun:dering, 700, 950 and 1,150 grammes. However, when portions of the samplecontaining 50 per centof plasticiser in cotton and acetate were ironedfor a period of 2 minutes at the same temperature, or for the same time(30 seconds) with an iron at 240 F. their adhesion rose to 170 grammesand, after laundering, to 1,050 grammes.

Thedegree of plasticisation to be achieved depends upon the precise:requirements of the user. Clearly, the lower the temperature and/or thegreater the speed at which it is desired to combine and/or stiffen thefabrics, the'higher the proportion of plasticiser necessary in thecellulose acetate and in general the greater the difference in theprimary and laundered strength of adhesion. For any particularconditions of temperature-pressure and speed of fusion there will be'acorresponding optimum plasticiser concentration below which thelaundered strength will be less than that realisable'with the acetatecellulose present but above which for a considerable range of increasedconcentration there will be no considerable increase in ultimateadhesion. If the proportion of plasticiser intro duced into thecellulose acetate is permitted to reach high figures (for example 300per cent or more) the fusion or solution temperature or the plasticisedthreads may fall so low that extreme care in heat regulation and/or timeof treatment would be necessary to prevent such an excessive flow of themass as to reduce the primary adhesion strength below practicable limitsand/or spread the adhesive into a continuous and impermeable layer;moreover, the operative fabric would tend to become sticky and clammy inhandling and cease to be a merchantable article, at least in markets inwhich fabrics normally find application.

Nevertheless, where such operative fabrics are to be employed whenmanufactured for immediate incorporation insemi-stiffened tissue .(forexample as'a continuous-processwithin one factory) such'extremeplasticisation may-be employed with advantage, adhesion being then;accomplished by heavy pressure (for example by a calender) at ordinaryair-orbut slightlyreleg vated temperatures, the tissue passing at; onceto a laundering treatment. The mutual adjustment between the cost oftheplasticiser-and the advantage of low-temperature and/ or high-speedworking cannot be laid down since it is dependent upon variableconditions extraneous to the process.

- It is clear that, instead-of padding and beaming; the differentialabsorption can'be timed in a variety of ways well known in the artiforex"- ample, the operation can be conveniently carried out on a jig ordyeing machine, the time factor being controlled in accordance with thelength of the pieces and the number of ends given. Thus a fabric (asdescribed before), treated on the jig with the emulsion already given,gave the following figures:

7 It will be seenfrom'the foregoin l atl have by my invention provided aprocess possessing 1 manifest advantages, The elimination of the useofvolatile solvents of which relativelylarge vol;

umes are requiredmuch of which is necessarily wasted-results in economy.Such solvents are usually highly inflammablefwithv the consequent risksof fire, demanding special equipment and moreover, where solvents areused, the operation is of a type to which the trades involved are notaccustomed. With the use of my special plasticised operative ply nothingmore than an ordinary ironing operation either by means of a hand iron alaundry press ,or other equipment with which operatives are familiar Isuffices .to ensure a satisfactory product.

The use of the aqueous emulsion permits ade-j quate control of thedegree of 'plasticisingrof the material both as a whole and also theratio of.

distribution of, the plasticiser as between the acetyl-cellulosic andnon-acetyl-cellulosicv con-I stituents of the material.

Thus the operative ply material 'canmdflybe produced .to meet varyingrequirements by changes in the concentration of the aqueous emulsion andthe immersion time period.

I claim:

1. A plasticiser for cellulose acetateadapted to be used in theproduction of launderable semistiff fabrics from laminations at leastone of which laminations consists of both cellulose acetate and cotton,which plasticiser consists of an aqueous emulsion of the followingconstituents, in approximately the following proportions in parts byweight:

. Parts Formam'lide 2'75 o-Formyltoluide 225 Casein 24 Hydrated borax 12Water 470 2. A plasticiser for cellulose acetate adapted casein,hydrated borax, and water, the said emulsionbeing. prepared byintermixing a mixture consisting'of,approximately 55 percent by weightof formanilide-and: approximately-45 percent of o-formyltoluide andasolution, consisting of approximately 24- parts by. weight of caseinand approximately" 12 parts by weight of hydrated borax inapproximately-4'70; parts by weight-of water, the. mixture andsolution'being intermixed in; the ratio of aproximately 500parts byweight of the mixture to the 470 partsbyweight of water.

v3. A process for plasticising laminating fabrics consisting of strandsof both cellulose acetate'and cotton, which comprises preparing aplasticiser composition by intermixing a mixture proximately 24 parts byweight of casein and approximately 12 parts by 7 weight of hydratedbor'axin approximately-470 parts by weight of watermaintainedat atemperature of approxi-,-

- 8 5. 'A process for producing compositelaminated fabrics, one layer ofthe laminatedifabrics'ibeing an operative layer of fabric consisting ofstrands of both cellulose acetate and cotton, which co'mprisespreparinga plasticizer emulsion by addinga mixture consisting ofapproximately 551percent by weight of formanilide' and approximately 45percent of o-formyltoluide to asolutiorr consisting ofiapproxim'ately 24partsiby weight of 'casein'zand approximately 12 parts by: weight .ofhydrated borax in approximately MOT-parts by'weight offormanilide-o+formyltoluide=mixture: being addedto'the: said solution inthe ratio'ofiapproxia mately1200 F., the formanilide-o formyltoluidemixture being intermixed .with thesaid solution in th'e ratio ofapproximately. 500 parts by weight.- of. the mixture to the, 470 partsby weight of water,. cooling the; resulting emulsion,- and -im mersingthe fabric in the resulting emulsion.

, 4, A. process for producin laminating fabrics composed of strands ofboth cellulose acetate and cotton, which comprises preparing aplasticizer emulsion by adding ,amixtureconsisting of approximately 55percent by weight of formanilideand approximately percent ofo-formyltoluide to a solution consisting of approximately 24 parts byweight of casein and approximatelyv 12 .parts by, weight of hydratedborax in approximately 470 parts by weight of water maintained at atemperature of, approximately 200". F., the said ll'llX turebeingiadded. to the said solution intheratio of approximately 500 partsby weight of the.,mix--,

and'drying'the'fabric,

mately 500 partsby weight of the mixturevto the: 4'70 partsby weight ofwaterycooling theresulting emulsion, immersing the fabric in the emu1-.sion until the plasticizer is absorbed both by the cotton and by thecellulose acetate, removing the fabric from the emulsion, pressing outany excess, emulsion from the fabric, drying the resulting operativefabric, placing the resulting operative'fabric in juxtaposition with anon-operative fabric, and bonding together the juxtaposed operative andnon-operative fabrics by applying heat and pressure until bondingthereof is effected.

6. Aplasticized operative-fabric for producing a-- laminated .fabricstructure, which operative fabric is composed of. a; cellulose acetateconstituent and a-cotton constituent, each of -the saidlconw stituentscontaininga pl'a'stici'zer foifltliecellulose acetate produced byintermixin-g a mixture consisting of approximately 55. percent byweight, of formanilide, and approximately 415' percentjcf,0-formyltoluide andja solution consisting of ,ap-

proximately 24 parts by weightoflcaseinand, ap,--

proximately 12 parts by weight of hydratedborax in approximatelyMOQpartsZby weight of. Water,

the mixture and solution beinglintermixed in the.

- ratio of approximately 500 parts by weightof the mixture to the 4'70partsby weight of water.,,

, j R C HIGGINS REFERENCES-CITED" 4 "The following referencesi glerecord in. the file of this patent UNITED STATES 1 2,409,704 f Lyem';1oct. 22,.19 16,

1. A PLASTICISER FOR CELLULOSE ACETATE ADAPTED TO BE USED IN THE PRODUCTION OF LAUNDERABLE SEMISTIFF FABRICS FROM LAMINATIONS AT LEAST ONE OF WHICH LAMINATIONS CONSISTS OF BOTH CELLULOSE ACETATE AND COTTON, WHICH PLASTICISER CONSISTS OF AN AQUEOUS EMULSION OF THE FOLLOWING CONSTITUENTS, IN APPROXIMATELY THE FOLLOWING PROPORTIONS IN PARTS BY WEIGHT: PARTS FORMANILIDE 275 O-FORMYLTOLUIDE 225 CASEIN 24 HYDRATED BORAX 12 WATER 470
 4. A PROCESS FOR PRODUCING LAMINATING FABRICS COMPOSED OF STRANDS OF BOTH CELLULOSE ACETATE AND COTTON, WHICH COMPRISES PREPARING A PLASTICIZER EMULSION BY ADDING A MIXTURE CONSISTING OF APPROXIMATELY 55 PERCENT BY WEIGHT OF FORMANILIDE AND APPROXIMATELY 45 PERCENT OF O-FORMYLTOLUIDE TO A SOLUTION CONSISTING OF APPROXIMATELY 24 PARTS BY WEIGHT OF CASEIN AND APPROXIMATELY 12 PARTS BY WEIGHT OF HYDRATED BORAX IN APPROXIMATELY 470 PARTS BY WEIGHT OF WATER MAINTAINED AT A TEMPERATURE OF APPROXIMATELY 200* F., THE SAID MIXTURE BEING ADDED TO THE SAID SOLUTION IN THE RATIO OF APPROXIMATELY 500 PARTS BY WEIGHT OF THE MIXTURE TO THE 470 PARTS BY WEIGHT OF WATER, RAPIDLY COOLING THE RESULTING EMULSION, IMMERSING THE FABRIC IN THE EMULSION UNTIL THE PLASTICIZER IS ABSORBED BOTH BY THE BOTTOM AND BY THE CELLULOSE ACETATE, REMOVING THE FABRIC FROM THE EMULSION, PRESSING OUT EXCESS EMULSION FROM THE FABRIC, AND DRYING THE FABRIC.
 6. A PLASTICIZED OPERATIVE FABRIC FOR PRODUCING A LAMINATED FABRIC STRUCTURE, WHICH OPERATIVE FABRIC IS COMPOSED OF A CELLULOSE ACETATE CONSTITUENT AND A COTTON CONSTITUENT, EACH OF THE SAID CONSTITUENTS CONTAINING A PLASTICIZER FOR THE CELLULOSE ACETATE PRODUCED BY INTERMIXING A MIXTURE CONSISTING OF APPROXIMATELY 55 PERCENT BY WEIGHT OF FORMANILIDE AND APPROXIMATELY 45 PERCENT OF O-FORMYLTOLUIDE AND A SOLUTION CONSISTING OF APPROXIMATELY 24 PARTS BY WEIGHT OF CASEIN AND APPROXIMATELY 12 PARTS BY WEIGHT OF HYDRATED BORAX IN APPROXIMATELY 470 PARTS BY WEIGHT OF WATER, THE MIXTURE AND SOLUTION BEING INTERMIXED IN THE RATIO OF APPROXIMATELY 500 PARTS BY WEIGHT OF THE MIXTURE TO THE 470 PARTS BY WEIGHT OF WATER. 